Bistrot Zinc
WHAT: Bistrot Zinc
WHERE: 1131 N. State St.
OUR RATING: Do It!
(bistrotzinc.com)
As we slowly make our way around the French restaurants of Chicago, the innumerable “bistrots”, “cafés” and “des restaurants” soon seem to blur into one another, all with similar decor and dishes. That’s why Bistrot Zinc is such a nice change. With a emblazoned storefront set in red and black, but an interior that speaks more to the French farmhouse than the Parisian bistro, with tile floors, tin ceilings and a handcrafted zinc bar, this Gold Coast restaurant is in a swanky neighborhood, producing good, authentic cuisine at middling prices.
(bistrotzinc.com)
Adam: When I entered Bistrot Zinc, I knew I had made the right choice. Friendly and helpful wait-staff, brilliant decor and a simple, yet satisfying menu mark this establishment out as one of the better deals in the Gold Coast. Famous for its zinc-topped bar, I was coming for the food rather than the libations, but I’m assured that their wine selection is rather good.
Sitting facing the windows (which are opened on a warm summer’s day), I perused a menu replete with escargot, moule marinières, and onion soup, but it was the Foie de Veau that caught my attention. It goes without saying that the preparation of a good calf’s liver is the mark of a successful French restaurant, and I am pleased to report that Bistrot Zinc does it right. Sauteed calf’s liver comes topped with fried onions and seated upon a bed of crème fraîche mashed potatoes slathered in port sauce. Bacon can also be added.
(bistrotzinc.com)
The first thing to notice about BZs liver is the thickness. Generally, veal liver is served ultra-thin, but BZ manages to pull off a thicker cut, without any of the odd grainy textures less experienced chefs seem to produce. Perhaps the most delicious aspect of the meal is the port sauce, which accentuated the “Frenchness” of the whole affair. I would have appreciated the addition of mushrooms or green beans sometimes seen elsewhere, but I was impressed enough with BZ’s liver to be able to fully recommend it to you as a delightful dish.
(bistrotzinc.com)
Alicia: Je voudrais…vol-au-vent! Vol-au-vent, French for “flight in the wind” is usually a small hollow puff pastry filled with either a savory or sweet filling. Invented by pastry-chef Antonin Carême in the early 1800’s, the vol-au-vent pastry is usually all about the pastry, more than the filling, but at Bistrot Zinc it’s really the stew of the day that is highlighted in all its meaty goodness. Bistrot Zinc’s vol-au-vent is made up of their stew du jour, which can be anything from chicken to lamb to veal, a heaping pile of their crème fraîche mashed potatoes, and two crispy discs of puff pastry.
(bistrotzinc.com)
When our waiter informed us that the stew of the day was veal, I jumped right on ordering the catchy-sounding dish. I was pleasantly surprised in the balance of the dish favoring the stew, rather than the pastry, with a healthy dose of cooked celery and carrots in a tomato-based broth. The pastry was light and airy but also crispy, and yet offered another taste and texture altogether once smothered in the stew. And the stew itself was a complex and savory tour of delicate melt-in-your-mouth veal and crushed tomatoes. The mashed potatoes lent yet another layer, with plenty of herby creaminess. And, of course, the highlight of the evening was when I used their amazingly crispy slices of French bread to soak up the last remnants of my dish.
(bistrotzinc.com)
Final Thoughts: Bistrot Zinc brings the flavor and bright sunny feeling of a classic French bistro without the stuffiness you might find in good ol’ France. And with a healthy sized menu and generous portions, you’ll definitely go home with a full stomach and some satisfied taste buds.