Balena
WHAT: Balena (Italian)
WHERE: 1633 N. Halsted St.
OUR RATING: Do It!
A place providing physical ease, the relaxation of invitingly comfy furnishings, a spacious atmosphere and a bold simplification of food, Lincoln Park’s Balena is an upscale Italian eatery perfect for pre-show cocktails or a full-on meal. Complete with an impressive cocktail menu, an array of pizzas and other small bites, it also has a nice dessert menu. To be certain, this place is definitely a bit upscale for one’s wallet, but you’re sure to find something you love here.
Margherita Pizza (Photo: Nick Kindelsperger)
Adam: Pizza: traditional, Italian, fun! And not what I would normally get at an Italian restaurant! But, with all the talk of Balena’s magnificent pizzas, I just had to make an exception. Trying both the margherita and mushroom pizzas, I can honestly say that Balena gets this right. Fresh mozzarella, basil and tomato make for an established choice, named for Queen Margherita of Savoy, who thought the colours resembled the Italian flag. It’s fitting that Old World basil, the King of Herbs, is paired with the New World tomato here, for the merging of cultures elevates this dish to new heights.
Mushroom Pizza (opentable.com)
I also tried their mushroom pizza, topped with fontina cheese, taleggio cheese (so ancient that Cicero talked of his liking for it), scallions and thyme. Very Italian, delicate and delectable, you can imagine yourself taking supper on Lake Como with this fabulous combination.
Having a penchant for wine, I decided to try two, both a red and a white, to go with the margherita and mushroom pizzas, respectively. The red was the lovely Stefano Farina “Le Brume Langhe”, a mixture of Nebbiolo, Barbera, and Merlot, from Piedmont (2007 12 / 39). Quite full and a perfect complement to tomatoes, black plum comes through strongly, with a definite blackberry flavor and a hint of coffee. Most certainly recommended, Pliny the Elder drank a variety of this wine while in Piedmont – if it’s good enough for old Pliny, it’s certainly good enough for me!
(Photo: Eric Kleinberg)
Onward then, to the white wine, a Salviano “Orvieto” of Procanico grapes (first cultivated for the Pope) from Umbria (2010 11 / 39). Making an excellent and light pairing with the mushroom pizza, pear is the dominant flavor, along with apple and a minerally aftertaste. Refreshing and relaxing, this wine makes for the perfect end to an evening.
A highly enjoyable experience, which I hope to repeat soon.
(balenachicago.com)
Alicia: Balena mixologist Debbi Peek crafts some crazy cocktails that explore a variety of Western European bitters and, more specifically, Italian Amari. The bitterness of each of their drinks is rated on a “1-10” scale, a “1” representing the least and a “10” the most bitter. I must admit that my palate hasn’t quite accepted bitters favorably in the past, so I went for a safer option with their Rosemary No2, a well-balanced mix of campari, aperol, fresh sour, egg white, and delicately flamed rosemary. Definitely a fun drink and a great immersion into the world of bitters, with subtle, yet dangerously potent flavors.
(vodamagazine.com)
After kicking off the night with a cocktail, I ordered their spicy sausage, red onion, tomato and mozzarella pizza with a glass of their Andrian “Somerto” Chardonnay, Alto Aldige 2011. You might hesitate to mix these two, as red wine is usually a safer bet to pair with sausage. But I was crazy to try their Somerto so I just went for it. The wine was delicate with a hint of peach, but I failed to really catch the mango and grilled nuts as listed in the description. It was nonetheless crisp and refreshing, and I give major thanks to Balena for their more than generous pouring.
Mushroom Pizza (Photo: Nick Kindelsperger)
As for the pizza, I usually don’t go for sausage, as I always think most places overcook their meat, but Balena’s sausage was tender and juicy. It wasn’t very spicy, which was fine by me because the lack of spice and the delicate mozzarella cheese paired with my wine quite nicely. And the dough was perfect: thin but substantial, with puffy, chewy edges.
(balenachicago.com)
Final Thoughts: Chef Chris Pandel works wonders with Peter Becker, who runs the restaurant’s bread program, and we’re just itching to go back and try some of their other breads and perhaps dig into a bowl of pasta or two. And while we didn’t save room with our trio of pizzas and glasses of wine, we hear pastry chef Amanda Rockman’s desserts really do rock, so we’re definitely headed back for more. If you get a chance, don’t forget to check out their cavern-esque cellar/event space downstairs as well!