WHAT: Bullhead Cantina (Taco and Whiskey Bar)
WHERE: 1143 N. California Ave.
OUR RATING: Do It!
(bullheadcantina.com)
Interestingly, this particular eatery is west, rather than south, of the metaphorical border that is bourgeois Chicago. Yet its distinctive blend of hole-in-the-wall roadtrip interior design, artistic taco selection and hipster tunes beating through concealed speakers means that you will be enjoying more than just snacks at this cantina.
We decided to visit the Humboldt Park’s Bullhead Cantina on Thursday, because we’d heard that their epic 12 taco sampler, an array of three different taco morsels from their extensive menu, was only $12. Unfortunately, that doesn’t include the steak, brisket or tilapia, but who cares–this place is a winner. We had two guests with us, so we ordered two platters, and were able to try six different varieties of taco:
(yelp.com)
Beer Grilled Chicken – A Mexican classic, except this one is tossed in PBR with a hint of lime along with lettuce, tomato and sour cream. We recommend you drizzle it with a chimichurri sauce or the spicy lime sauce for a less traditional combination. Of all the tacos we tried, this is perhaps our least favorite, but the sauce makes up for most deficiencies in the preparation of the chicken.
Grits & Kale – While not your typical taco filling, or a filling for anything, really, these creamy stone ground grits were accompanied by sautéed kale in white wine, garlic and harissa, and a pineapple bourdon reduction. The grits were mouth-watering, but our biggest concern with these tacos was the severe lack of kale. The lack of veg in these impelled us to add a bunch more lettuce and pickled cabbage which accompanied our twelve tacos.
(chicago.seriouseats.com)
Taco de Avocado – The butter of the Incas is presented in a new light here, along with tomato, gypsy pepper (first time we’ve heard of that!), lettuce, grilled onion, and a topping of cheese and chile sour cream. It’s a rich one, but the eloquent spicing of the avocado creates a new type of experience worth the extra calories.
Marinated Grilled Portobello – These mushrooms were grilled to perfection, and laden with avocado, grilled red onion, roasted corn, rustic tomato sauce and finished with sour cream. Their texture was riveting and their smokiness intoxicating – especially when paired with their house chipotle sauce. This isn’t like anything you could get on Portobello Road.
(chicago.seriouseats.com)
Grilled Sweet Potato – We’ve seen these new-age tacos before, but these came with pickled cabbage, grilled red onion, roasted corn and a creamy lime and avocado sauce. Well, at least that’s what the menu said. However, we didn’t receive any corn and really, while perfectly tasty, these were particularly underwhelming.
Roasted Beets – The table favorite, these beets were tossed in a citrus reduction with grilled red onion, tomato, lettuce, cucumber, chile powder and shredded cheese. Decadent, simple, savory and sweet in all the right places.
What really made these tacos special was the hand-made corn tortillas, which were just the perfect thickness to hold up against all the food and sauces packed into them, but still melt in your mouth. After going through them all and still having fillings leftover, it was almost painful when we didn’t take our waitress up on her offer for more of these, but our stomachs were quite full enough already.
(yelp.com)
What we missed out most on, perhaps, was their huge whiskey selection, and we would definitely come back for their every day special, which for a measly $6 gets you one of their scrumptious tacos paired with a PBR tall boy and a shot of the whiskey of the day. And if we weren’t lucky enough to come back here on a Thursday, we would jump at the chance to try their steak and brisket tacos. We would probably drop the beer chicken, sweet potato and grits, but we’d never part with those beets and avocado.
(bullheadcantina.com)
Make sure you bring cash, because this place is so focused on the food, they forgot to bring along the credit card scanner. Service was brisk and consistent, although starters were seemingly offered as freebies (they are NOT), so make sure to check the menu before acquiescing to the server’s gracious offers.
You don’t always think of tacos, whiskey and Hot Chip going together, but Bullhead Cantina does this effortlessly and makes the trek out there completely worth it.
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